New Roamantics -

July 31, 2025

5 Things That Surprised Me About Azerbaijan

I recently spent a month traveling through Azerbaijan, my first ever glimpse at the Caucasus. I didn’t expect much, except for Ladas, mountains, and the Flame Towers of Baku. But the longer I stayed and the more I saw, the more fond I grew of this beautiful country and its people. Azerbaijan definitely rewards slow travel.

98% of people visit only 2 locations

Like all tourists recently, our trip started at Baku airport. Azerbaijan’s land borders have been closed since Covid, and so the only way into the country is by air. Baku has a decent number of tourists and so does Sheki, a town on the silk road near the border with Georgia. However, between those two places, we didn’t see many other foreign visitors, which is a real shame. Chinese and Korean tour busses are most prominent in Baku and Sheki, and according to some people I talked to, they spend only three days in the country before moving on to Georgia. Don’t make this mistake. Azerbaijan has a lot more to offer than manicured towns with cobblestone streets.

The Turkish flag is everywhere

The countries of the Caucasus have a troubled history, but this is not the place to get into who did what and who likes who. Except for Azerbaijan and Turkey, who seem to be best buddies. The languages are quite similar, they share a religion, and a lot of the culture. Food-wise, they both love doner and ayran, and baklava is the local sweet treat. More often than not, the Azerbaijani flag is depicted in a kind of collage-type mash-up with the Turkish one. In fact, a tour guide in Sheki even referred to the Turkish as their brothers and let some people cut the line. I don’t know of any other country where this is the case. I don’t think the German and Austrian flags will get a mash-up anytime soon simply because we share a language.

The breakfast is very dairy-heavy

Azerbaijanis love their dairy. But they don’t stop at milk and cheese. At some point, I had no fewer than six different dairy products on the table for breakfast. There was milk in my coffee, but that one doesn’t really count, so make this five. First, there was a feta-type flavorful cheese, then there was a spreadable strong cream cheese with cumin seeds, followed by rustic butter and some other type of stringy cheese in the menemen-style scrambled eggs with tomato. Last but not least, my favorite was basically a thick whipped cream that I enjoyed loaded with honey and jam. The breakfast here is just legen-dairy.

Street cats are royalty

This one is also similar to Turkey and especially Istanbul, but cats are so fun, they deserve their own section. There are a lot of street cats in Azerbaijan. Some look a bit scruffy, but the locals usually treat them really well. There are blankets on radiators, bowls of cat food, and just general respect for them by not being chased away from markets and store fronts to make their lives a bit more enjoyable.

Memorials double as water fountains

There are a lot of water fountains in Azerbaijan, and many are memorials related to the recent wars in Nagorno-Karabakh. They are beautifully decorated with flowers and pictures and even have to cups. Though I’d rather use my hands or refill my bottle than share a cup with hundreds of strangers. So with Azerbaijan (and turns out the Caucasus in general) providing tasty and free water at every street corner and countries like Korea and Japan offering free public toilets (but no trash cans), may I suggest a mix of these two in Germany?

Bonus: Fun facts about Azerbaijan

Baku is the lowest capital city in the world, at 28 meters below sea level. The country gave women the right to vote in 1918, at the same time as Germany and earlier than the entirety of the United States.

Digital nomad essentials for life on the road

If you book via any of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Flights

I normally book my flights via Skyscanner or Kiwi. These search engines for flights show all the best connections and even include budget airlines for transfer hacks that can save you even more money.

Hotels

I normally use a good mixture of booking.com and Agoda to get the best deals. I like booking for its user-friendly interface. But for Asia, I’ve found that Agoda has a wider selection of hotels.

If you’re on a budget, Hostelworld will be your best bet because they focus on dormitory-style accommodation.

Tours

GetYourGuide is perfect for locally guided tours or if tickets are already booked. I saw the famous Last Supper painting by Leonardo Da Vinci with them in Milan and had a very smooth experience.

Klook is a great option to book bus tickets in South Korea. This can be such a hassle, especially if you want to book before you actually get to the country. Klook allows you to book a bus ticket online for pickup at the station. You can also reserve SIM card packages with them an arrange airport pickup, with is super convenient because it’s already paid for.

June 4, 2025

Azerbaijan registration: Penalty if you forgot

So you had a great time during your Azerbaijan travels but overstayed your welcome? But let’s start at the beginning. Azerbaijan’s e-visa is valid for 30 days. If you intend to stay more than 15 days, you have to register with the migration authorities before these 15 days are up. We thought that the hotel would do this Azerbaijan registration automatically. But this was not the case and we were held up at the border to Georgia. My mom always says “traveling is educational,” so I’ll educate you on what happens if you DON’T register.

How to register in Azerbaijan

You can register online, which takes only 24 hours. You can also send an email with all the necessary documents to qeydiyyat@migration.gov.az. Or go to any ASAN service center in bigger towns with your passport.

What to do if you didn’t register in Azerbaijan

If, like us, you didn’t register as a foreigner in Azerbaijan, not all is lost. I had never had problems at a border. Less so when I wanted to leave the country, but there’s a first time for everything. Luckily, everyone was polite and just explained that we had to go to the next ASAN service center in Balakan. Since we were crossing the border between Sheki and Sighnaghi, we only had to go back about 20 minutes. A nice driver, who had just dropped people at the border, was going back empty to Baku and dropped us in Balakan for free.

But now to the actual penalty process. The ASAN building is super new, has multiple levels, and offers Azerbaijanis all administrative services, including a wedding registry. We had our luggage checked upon entering and then told the ladies at the reception why we were there. They didn’t even consider the possibility that we might be there for proper registration and just asked us “Penalty”? We’re probably not the only people who do their walk of shame there.

Next, we went upstairs to the G counter at the far back, which is specifically for migration services. The case worker informed us that the penalty was 300 manat each. We then asked if there wasn’t any leeway or anything else we could do. We apologized again, just like we did at the border, but to no avail. The other option would have been to not pay and go back to the border. We could have decided to be banned from Azerbaijan for five years, which honestly, we considered for a minute. But I didn’t want this ban to come back to haunt me during future visa applications in other countries. It took about 30 minutes for them to input all the data. We then had to pay the fee at the bank counter, where they accepted card payments. We then had to go back to the immigration counter, sign some documents, and we were free to go.

All in all, this process was really smooth. It was obvious that they have a system in place for this kind of situation. When the border agent first told us we would have to go register, I imagines a dodgy and dark back room. We would pay someone an exorbitant amount in cash under the table. All was well in the end, This little adventure set us back only an around three hours before we were finally on the other side in Georgia. And we even enjoyed one last doner in Balakan.

May 21, 2025

Mardi Himal Trek: 3 Days in the Himalayas

The Mardi Himal Trek gives you all the views with fewer crowds. In only a short three days, you can trek to Mardi Himal Base Camp at an elevation of 4200 meters. Not bad, right? The trailhead is only a short bus ride away from Pokhara, Nepal’s trekking capital. You can leave the comforts of smoothie bowls and a real gym behind for a few days to get your steps in in the great outdoors.

You can plan your Mardi Himal trekking in only one day in Pokhara. For this, you need to get your ACAP permit from their office, which is within walking distance of the popular Lakeside district, buy some hiking essentials, such as hiking sticks if you fly carry-on only like me, load up on snacks, and off you go. Pokhara lives and breathes trekking, so NOT finding what you need would be the real challenge.

Mardi Himal Trek: Distances and route

*Mardi Himal trek map at the start point in Kandi, with thanks to Hotel Gurans*

We walked the complete Mardi Himal Trek in 3 days, and this is definitely doable if you don’t want to arrive at the teahouse for lunch. We got off the bus at the roadside in Kande and started the hike with a very steep uphill to Australian Camp. This would also be a great place to stay overnight as a city getaway or just as a day hike from Pokhara if your digital nomad base is there.

The highest you can sleep at is High Camp, which means it’s still a two-hour uphill to the first viewpoint and four hours if you go all the way to the “real” base camp.

Here’s my three-day itinerary for Mardi Himal:

Day 1: Pokhara to Kande, trek to Forest Camp
Day 2: Forest Camp to High Camp
Day 3 High Camp to Sidhing

If you have more time and/or don’t mind walking on some roads, you could also walk to Mardi Himal from Pokhara directly. One day from Pokhara to Sarangkot (the hill overlooking Pokhara as seen from the Peace Pagoda), overnight there and continue to Forest Camp (about 20 km) the next day. I really wanted to do this, but it was so smoggy it actually hurt my lungs just breathing when I was still in Pokhara.

Preparing for the Mardi Himal Base Camp Trek

There are a few things to consider before you set off on your hike. You’ll need your ACAP permit, pack some essential items, and decide if you want to use a guide and porter. You can read this helpful blog post for trekking in Nepal’s Annapurna region I wrote. It has all the essentials.

There was a permit checkpoint after Australian Camp, where you enter the Conservation Area, so I think it would be difficult to be sneaky and try to hike without a permit.

How long is the Mardi Himal Trek?

Most trekking offices advertise treks outside on the sidewalk. That’s really practical for getting ideas beyond the most popular treks. Most agencies say the trek will take about four to five days, but guided groups normally take more breaks and have shorter days. We hiked the 38 km of Mardi Himal in three days, two nights. But there are so many tea houses in between that you could stop and stay somewhere off-schedule any time you want.

How hard is the Mardi Trek in Nepal?

The Mardi trek’s difficulty is hard to judge because everyone is different. I have a lot of experience hiking, but stairs still give me breathless moments and I’m super clumsy going down. There was no snow when we walked this in late March 2025, but this is not always the case. Plus, this trail is less frequented, so if you do have to walk on snow it’s not as compact and easy to walk on as on other trails, such as ABC Trek. The section between High Camp and the viewpoint is exclusively stairs. This made it especially difficult for me because I didn’t have breakfast and we woke up early (I’m such a princess). Generally though, the terrain is more natural and has fewer stairs than Annapurna Base Camp Trek. There were people of all ages and abilities, so anyone of decent fitness (but high level of motivation) can do it.

How much does it cost to hike Mardi Himal?

Just as difficulty, cost is a very fluent concept. We spent 4000 to 5000 rupees per day at the teahouse for two people. This includes the room, dinner, breakfast, a hot shower, and WiFi/electricity. Plus 500 rupees for tea and coffee during the day. In addition, you have to budget for the transportation. This adds another 1000 to 1500 rupees per person for the jeep from Sidhing and 200 rupees for the bus from Pokhara to Kandi.

The guesthouses make their own prices for rooms, hot showers, and WiFi. But the menu is streamlined by the Annapurna association to prevent guesthouse from outbidding each other. This also means that you get the same foods everywhere in the conversation area, which is kind of comforting. You can spend the whole day looking forward to a very specific meal or rate the same potato dish at every stop.

How to get to Mardi Himal from Pokhara?

Getting to the start point for Mardi Himal trekking is very straightforward. The official start point is just up the road from Kande, on the same street that goes to Nayapul for Poon Hill and the ABC trek. The local bus is very cheap and only costs around 200 rupees per person. The busses leave every hour on the hour from the main bus station Baglung. The first one leaves at 6 a.m. It takes around 1 hour to reach Kande. The taxi from Lakeside to the bus station costs 500 to 600 rupees. Be prepared to spend the entire ride convincing the driver that you want to experience the local bus instead of getting a ride with him all the way to Kande.

Nomad Notes from Mardi Himal Trek

Mardi Himal is definitely more remote than Poon Hill, but WiFi is still widely available. We saw signs at all the guesthouses. I didn’t work this time, but (unfortunately) was able to use Instagram and the likes to my heart’s desire. The only thing is that most rooms don’t have working sockets. That’s why I like to leave my power bank charging unsupervised instead of my valuables.

My Mardi Himal Trek itinerary

Safe for the diversion from Low Camp to Sidhing, Mardi Himal is an in-and-out trek. This means that it’s not a loop and you have to go back the same way you came. To avoid this and also extend the trek a bit, you could walk down to Landruk, which is where you can connect to ABC trek.

Stay tuned for my day-to-day report 🙂

Digital nomad essentials for life on the road

If you book via any of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Flights

Hotels

I normally use a good mixture of booking.com and Agoda to get the best deals. I like booking for its user-friendly interface. But for Asia, I’ve found that Agoda has a wider selection of hotels.

If you’re on a budget, Hostelworld will be your best bet because they focus on dormitory-style accommodation.

Tours

GetYourGuide is perfect for locally guided tours or if tickets are already booked. I saw the famous Last Supper painting by Leonardo Da Vinci with them in Milan and had a very smooth experience.

May 7, 2025

Mardi Himal vs. ABC Trek: Which Trek Is Right for You?

Nepal is an amazing trekking destination. But there are so many amazing hikes to choose from. So which hike is right for you? I did three short treks in Nepal, namely Ghorepani/Poon Hill trek, Mardi Himal Trek, and Annapurna Basecamp Trek, and can confidently say that you’ll have a great time no matter if you choose ABC or Mardi Himal. But since this answer won’t help you with the Mardi Himal vs. ABC question, let me break down the pros and cons of each.

Annapurna Base Camp trek: What is it like?

Annapurna Base Camp trek, or ABC trek for short, was my first long-ish hike in Nepal. It took us five days and I absolutely loved it. This is the right hike for you if you’re looking for breathtaking views of the Himalayas, snowy peaks, and perfectly neat trails. Before you set out, you’ll need to get your ACAP permit, but then you’re good to go.

My careful estimate is that the trek is 70% stairs; the rest is lush forest trails at low elevations and snow on the last day. Annapurna Base Camp trekking is very popular with guided group tours from East Asia, meaning that there are often large clusters of people to overtake if you’re a fast hiker. Since we combined ABC trek with Ghorepani/Poon Hill, we were hiking for a total of seven days. Five days of walking without Poon Hill. This means that you’ll walk in forest terrain for two to four days before the trail becomes more mountainous and you feel like you’re actually in the Himalayas.

There’s great WiFi coverage in the guest houses, and all of them have electricity outlets in the rooms or dining room. At the beginning of March, at the onset of the busy season, the teahouses were already quite crowded, but we didn’t see many individual hikers at the ones we stayed at. The guesthouses would mostly seem empy when we arrived but would be packed for dinner because the groups were generally slower than us. It definitely makes sense to be smart about when to order dinner if you want to avoid waiting forever.

Annapurna Base Camp lies at 4130 meters. The last two hours of ascent are very snowy, but it’s a continuous elevation, which makes it quite okay. Not easy, but you don’t need to take breaks constantly.

Mardi Himal Trek: What is it like?

Mardi Himal trekking was amazing. It has a lot of steps but also a lot of natural terrain. You can see the mountains, but the full panorama is often blocked by the trail you’re walking on. You only have those unobscured views on the last summit/base camp push. This hike took us only three days, so the work vs. reward ratio is very favorable if you’re short on time.

Crowd-wise, this trail felt very relaxed, with some people, but no big groups. We met mostly Nepali people, which I found really interesting. Strangely, even though there were fewer people at the guest houses, there were a lot more individual hikers, not groups, so it felt more social and I actually talked to some other hikers over dinner.

Mardi Himal base camp altitude is at around 4500 meters, though there are many different highest points on the maps. I went to a viewpoint just above some tea houses (only for tea, not sleeping) at 4200 meters and not all the way to the final, final point across the ridge. I’ve heard that the view doesn’t change much and still enjoyed it a lot. Plus, the snow up there won’t be as walkable and compact because there’s less foot traffic. This is also where many guided groups turned around. The two hours it took us to get there were really hard for me, and the constant stairs were tough.

My opinion: Which trek in Nepal is better?

The decision between ABC and Mardi trek was a tough one at first, so I’m really happy that I had time to do both in the end and really enjoyed both treks. I preferred the walking itself on Mardi Himal because of the more natural trails. Mardi Himal was also less crowded, which I appreciated a lot. However, the views on ABC trek were just spectacular, and Mardi Himal couldn’t compare in my opinion. If you’re looking for the highest numbers, Mardi Himal height is a bit higher than Annapurna Base Camp. Because of the snow, ABC felt much higher though, but Mardi was tougher. If you’re short on time, Mardi Himal is a great option because you’re only away from Pokhara for two nights. Comparing Mardi Himal and Annapurna Base Camp trek is not easy, but considering the crowds in the main season, I would probably choose Mardi Himal knowing what I know now if I didn’t have time for both.

Digital nomad essentials for life on the road

If you book via any of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Flights

Hotels

I normally use a good mixture of booking.com and Agoda to get the best deals. I like booking for its user-friendly interface. But for Asia, I’ve found that Agoda has a wider selection of hotels.

If you’re on a budget, Hostelworld will be your best bet because they focus on dormitory-style accommodation.

Tours

GetYourGuide is perfect for locally guided tours or if tickets are already booked. I saw the famous Last Supper painting by Leonardo Da Vinci with them in Milan and had a very smooth experience.

April 22, 2025

Nepal’s ABC Trek: Itinerary, Route, and Tips

Nepal’s ABC trek, or Annapurna Base Camp trek, is a great option if you’re looking for those amazing views of the Himalayas without being completely off the grid. Starting only two hours from the main trekking hub Pokhara, it’s the perfect beginner-friendly trek that will get your heart pumping and leave you gasping for air – from views and elevation.

You can plan the ABC trail in Nepal in only one day in Pokhara, as getting the permit, buying last-minute items, and organizing transportation is super easy and well organized. This town lives for trekking and it shows at every street corner. Trekking shops and tour companies line the main street in Lakeside.

I love these kind of trekking towns, where people try to look casual or cute, but really their shoes tell a story of imminent adventure. I know that most of the items you can buy here are fake, but I still feel drawn to buying trekking clothes and finally owning a Patagonia fleece. It will be my life’s mission to choose a color and style I like and splurge.

ABC Base Camp trek: Route and distances

ABC trek map — *Annapurna Base Camp trek map with the camps we slept at*

We walked Annapurna Base Camp trek via Poon Hill. This means that we skipped the traditional first day from Jhinu Danda and added an additional amazing short trek in Nepal that took us an extra 1.5 days.

We chose to sleep at MBC instead of ABC mainly because of its lower elevation. We had a lot of trouble sleeping at higher elevations. I wish I could blame the kids next door, but it was all us. Also, we had long hiking days, and the snow becomes slushy from the sun as the day progresses, so it’s much safer to ascend and descend between MBC and ABC as early in the day as possible.

If you don’t want to include Poon Hill trek, I suggest you use the following ABC trek itinerary. These are fairly long days, especially the 2000 meter descent on day 4, but we like a challenge:

Day 1: Pokhara to Jhinu Danda, trek to Bamboo Camp
Day 2: Bamboo to Machapucharé Base Camp (MBC)
Day 3 MBC to ABC Camp, descend to Himalaya Camp
Day 4: Himalaya to Jhinu Danda, jeep to Pokhara

If you have more time, you can also spend a night in Jhinu Danda and visit the hot springs in the area. These are about a 30-minute walk from the village.

Preparing for the Annapurna Trek in Nepal

There are a few things to consider before you set off on your hike. You’ll need your ACAP permit, pack some essential items, and decide if you want to use a guide and porter. I’ve written a helpful blog post for trekking in Nepal’s Annapurna region that has all the essentials.

There was a permit checkpoint at Chomrong before you enter the Conservation Area, so I think it would be difficult to be sneaky and try to hike without a permit.

How long is the ABC trek?

Most trekking offices in Pokhara advertise the Annapurna Base Camp trek in Nepal to take seven to nine days. However, we found that it took us only seven days including Poon Hill Trek.

How hard is the ABC trail?

The ABC trek’s difficulty is hard to judge because everyone is different. I have a lot of experience hiking, but stairs still give me breathless moments and I’m super clumsy going down. I also have some fears walking on snow, so I really took my time in those sections. The trek is super well maintained and not dangerous or difficult. The section between Deurali and ABC Camp (at the highest elevation) is more natural and doesn’t have any man-made stairs. But the lower altitudes are very straightforward with stairs and foresty sections. We saw plenty of people of all ages on the trail, even a very small baby.

How much does it cost to hike Annapurna Sanctuary?

How to get to ABC trek from Pokhara?

Getting to the start point for ABC trek is very straightforward. The official start point is a suspension bridge in Jhinu Danda. Shared jeeps leave Pokhara whenever they’re full. It costs between 6000 and 8000 rupees for the whole jeep, and it has space for five to eight people.

Since we walked ABC trek via Poon Hill, we took a local bus to Nayapul. They leave every hour on the hour from the main bus station Baglung and cost 300 rupees each. The first one leaves at 6 a.m. It takes around two hours to reach Nayapul, including a short break for food and restrooms. The taxi from Lakeside to the bus station costs 500 to 600 rupees. Be prepared to spend the entire ride convincing the driver that you want to experience the local bus instead of getting a ride with him all the way to Nayapul.

Nomad notes from ABC trek

Annapurna Base Camp trek is definitely more remote than Poon Hill, but WiFi is still widely available. We saw signs at all the guesthouses, but I think we were the only ones having actual work calls from the Himalayas. If my clients only knew the view we were having or the layers we were wearing.

My ABC trek itinerary

Annapurna Sanctuary trek, as the ABC trek is also known, is technically an in-and-out trek. This means that it’s not a loop and you have to go back the same way you came. To avoid this and also extend the ABC trek a bit, I walked it via Poon Hill. This added two extra days and made the trek route a bit more varied.

Day 1: Tadapani to Bamboo

For my full hiking report of Poon Hill and how to get to Tadapani, read my Poon Hill blog post.

After a half-day of work and a glorious sunrise in Tadapani, we set out fresh and rested. We had high hopes for today, and the trek didn’t disappoint. We walked through a beautiful forest, saw monkeys jump between the trees, and gazed at the peaks peeking through the foliage.

If you’re thinking of doing this trek, it’s worth considering to mix up this itinerary and not stay at the main camps. We passed some teahouses on the way down and kept thinking that it could be so nice to stay at the less frequented tea houses for some peace and quiet. But maybe next time.

It was a long descent down to a river, and we even passed some very scenic pagodas. The stairs down were fairly easy to walk, but I was already feeling my legs at the first suspension bridge. This felt like a bad omen. But I was determined to make it as far up as possible today to reach MBC camp the next day.

The next uphill was pretty steep. We had to take a few breathers along the way before we walked on a beautiful trail that hugged the hillside. Visibility was really good, but unfortunately, we didn’t see the mountains because the hills covered the view. We passed some tea houses and restaurants that seemed more like small villages, with families, babies, and puppies filling them with life. Down to the next suspension bridge we went before a long uphill to Chomrong. On the way, we stopped for a scenic tea and found internet to watch the full version of the Jackson 5 song “ABC” that I had been singing every time I saw an ABC sign.

We turned a corner and suddenly the full mountain panorama revealed itself. What a sight. I was especially impressed by laundry hanging in this area because people actually live here. I wouldn’t mind hanging laundry with this view!

Chomrong had a small town vibe, and there were not one, but two German bakeries. We skipped them for now, but didn’t know then that we’d come back on the way down. This is also where you can buy hiking sticks, crampons, toilet paper, Snickers, and everything else you may need. Chomrong is also where you pass a tourist checkpoint to have your permit checked and stamped. If you enter the Annapurna Conservation Area for the first time, they will keep the bottom and stamp the top of your permit for you to keep.

My guess is that the town itself has an elevation change of at least 200 meters. This is especially painful because you can see where you need to go (same elevation), yet you have to go down, cross a bridge and walk back up. There are mules/ponies/horses everywhere on this trek. In this section, the ground was completely covered in horse manure making the air quite dusty and smelly. That’s especially unfortunate when you breathe heavily, haha. On the way up, the trail became narrower. I had to duck into the bushes to make space for a running horse and rider that didn’t care about people in their way. The thing with the ponies is that even if you make space, you can never be quite sure exactly what trek they’re using and may end up trying to make some last-minute adjustments to your position.

We planned to go up to Sinewa Camp at least. Since it was early, we decided to push on to the next camp, Bamboo. We asked a lady if she thought we could make it to Bamboo, because it was already after 3 pm. Since she said she will go too, we said “let’s go” and set off together. I was pretty tired by this point. But the trail was really enjoyable and we made it to Bamboo camp in due time to play with not one, not two, but three puppies. We stayed at Buddha Guesthouse, which was fine, but in hindsight it was one of the least cozy ones in terms of dining room setup and general atmosphere, but this is just my personal opinion.

Day 2: Bamboo Camp to MBC

This was my favorite section of the hike. After morning cuddles with the puppies, we set off up, up, up as always. There were a lot of guesthouses on the way today, so it was nice to have a kind of schedule and divide the day into sections. The first waypoint, Dovan Camp, was followed by a pagoda next to a 90 degree cliff face. There were some small waterfalls, and I could only imagine what this place would look like after some rainfall. I had my second breakfast, or the second half of my only breakfast actually, and closed my eyes for a bit to enjoy the quiet, until a loud prayer gong pulled me from my thoughts. Time to hike!

Next came Himalaya Camp, which I really liked. The main “square” was full of life, the sun was shining, and I wished I was a more relaxed hiker to enjoy my breaks, but I always feel the need to move on. We just refilled our water and continued the trek. The scenery today was just beautiful, because the way followed a river valley offering panoramic views of the snowy mountains. The higher we came, the more snow was on the other side too, but the first snowy section I actually had to navigate was between Hinku cave and Deurali camp. I was happy I had my sticks, and the trail on the ice was more muddy than fresh, so I didn’t slip.

We arrived in Deurali Camp quite early in the day and were planning to push on to MBC today. My head got in the way as I heard there had been some avalanches in the upcoming section, but in the end we decided to go anyway, because porters and guided groups were still leaving. And sure enough, soon after Deurali we passed a sign announcing an avalanche risk area. We descended to a mostly dry riverbed, walked through a mix of snow and bush, and crossed the river before me met larger and larger patches of snow. I was still in my shorts and shirt and the wind was picking up too, so we put crampons and a warm layer on.

This was the only section where the trail wasn’t immediately obvious, but we saw some cables leading up, so we roughly followed those. Earlier this morning we had seen a group of three porters carrying giant cable coils up the mountain. If the weight wasn’t enough of a challenge, the coils were actually connected, meaning they had to stay close together. And all so we could have lights and WiFi up there, what a crazy world.

The more I walked on the snow, the more amazed I was by my crampons. They made such a huge difference and kept me from sliding even on steeper downward sections. The trail was also a bit narrow with steeper drop-offs, so I was very happy about the extra grip. The scenery was spectacular in this section, and I kept stopping to turn around and look back into the snowy valley. The mountains looked almost unreal. Even though I really liked this section, I was also very happy to arrive.

I didn’t expect to be freezing the whole afternoon though. Of course I know that the place wouldn’t be insulated and that we were at 3600 meters, but I guess you don’t really know what this means for comfort levels until it actually happens. The camp had a beautiful view, but you’ll understand how cold it was when I say that the “terrace” was made with snow.

Day 3: MBC–ABC–Himalaya

Today was a big day. In other regions we’d call it summit day, but not in the Himalayas. Here it’s merely basecamp day, but that’s good enough for me. Unlike most people who make this a sunrise hike, we decided to just wake up reasonably early, have breakfast and then set off. The weather was sunny and it was really cold at first, but this changed after about two minutes of walking – guess where? Up.

If you’re thinking of doing this trek, be aware that starting late means that you’ll encounter all the people walking down. I’ve found that many hikers in this region don’t have any etiquette, so I was mostly the one trying to find secure footing off trail because noone budged. Apart from that, I was mostly busy trying to breathe and enjoy the view. It took us roughly two hours to reach base camp at 4130 meters. There’s another viewpoint of the valley a bit further, but the clouds were coming in, so we skipped that part and just took our time enjoying sour Haribos we kept for this occasion.

On the way down, the snow underfoot was no longer crunchy but more like slush from the sun, making it a lot more slippery despite the crampons. Some people used plastic bags or their bums to slide down some steep sections, but I’m never quite courageous enough. I’d rather stagger down with my hiking sticks, looking like an idiot and using bad words.

We made it back to MBC for a second coffee after about four hours and continued down to Deurali. My boyfriend gave his crampons to someone in need, and we reached Deurali just in time for hail and rain. We had tea, I treated myself to a Snickers, and after an hour, the rain had passed and we continued. Talk about perfect timing.

It was quite nice to see how different the trek looked on the way back, because the weather was different too. I was a bit hesitant about doing an in-and-out trek, but I really enjoyed it. We spent the night at Himalaya Camp. I was too tired to choose, so we just went with the first one.

Day 4: Himalaya to Jhinu Danda/Pokhara

This was our last walking day and it was going to be a long one. I had one last breakfast of fried Tibetan bread and jam, with a boiled egg for the road.

The downhill was super smooth and I felt really comfortable walking. I didn’t have to overthink every step, so I was able to walk an acceptable pace. We took some small break to eat our last snacks, but by the time we had passed all the suspension bridges and related ascends and descends, I was starving for some cake at the German bakery in Chomrong. I’m quite snobbish when it comes to cake (or should I say, I’m a connoisseuse) and I was very impressed. We ate a brownie and apple cake, I washed my dirty hands with soap, what more can you wish for?

From Chomrong, it was less than an hour of downhill to Jhinu Danda, and let me say that I was really happy that we weren’t going up. The stairs were relentless and people were huffing and puffing, but fresh-faced and clean on their first day. We saw porters lugging up all sorts of things, like tables, mattresses, pipes, you name it. Maybe someone was building a new guesthouse?

Just after Jhinu Danda, you cross a very long suspension bridge, and that’s the end/beginning of ABC trek. We did it! There were loads of jeeps to take us to an intersection about 15 minutes up a very bumpy road. There is construction work at the moment, so we had to walk 20 minutes on a very sandy road to change jeeps.

We met a group of other hikers and were able to share one for 1000 rupees each, all the way to Lakeside and then went straight to Fire Pizza for a celebratory dinner and mint lemonade.

Digital nomad essentials for life on the road

If you book via any of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Flights

Hotels

I normally use a good mixture of booking.com and Agoda to get the best deals. I like booking for its user-friendly interface. But for Asia, I’ve found that Agoda has a wider selection of hotels.

If you’re on a budget, Hostelworld will be your best bet because they focus on dormitory-style accommodation.

Tours

GetYourGuide is perfect for locally guided tours or if tickets are already booked. I saw the famous Last Supper painting by Leonardo Da Vinci with them in Milan and had a very smooth experience.

April 17, 2025

Trekking in Nepal: Annapurna Permit, Packing List, and Useful Tips

Nepal is one of the most famed hiking destinations in the world, and Nepal’s Annapurna region is the most accessible of them. If you’re looking for a short trek in Nepal or if you have questions about trekking in Nepal’s Annapurna region, I’ve got you covered. In this short guide, I’ll share everything I’ve learned trekking on multiple of Nepal’s best treks for beginners.

Nepal teahouse trekking: What to expect

There are countless teahouse treks in Nepal – it’s just their thing. We did Poon Hill, ABC trek, and Mardi Himal in March 2025 and had a fabulous time. The accommodation for all treks in the Annapurna region is in teahouses. These are very basic, especially as you get higher in altitude, but they have everything you need as a hungry and tired trekker. There are private and dormitory-style rooms, and we didn’t need sleeping bags for our treks as they provided bedding. Sometimes we used three duvets to keep warm.

Most of the teahouses have solar-powered (free) or gas (paid) showers and even WiFi and electricity. You can buy snacks and sugary drinks (Monsoon Dew, anyone?), and you can have lunch in the restaurants and teahouses along the way. As you get higher in altitude, I’ve noticed less and less running water because it would freeze overnight. Any shower may be your last before you descend 🙂

Trekking in Nepal’s Annapurna Region: How to prepare

You’ll likely spend at least one day in Pokhara before your trek to get rid of your jet lag or relax after a long bus ride from Kathmandu. Pokhara is Nepal’s tourism capital and the largest city by area and second most populated after Kathmandu. The Lakeside area is popular among tourists and has everything you need to prepare for your trek.

The main street has an abundance of outdoor shops that sell (counterfeit) outdoor gear. I bought hiking sticks there for my hike, and the quality really surprised me. You could definitely arrive in Pokhara without a single item and go trekking the next day. So unless you want to climb Mount Everest and need the perfect setup, I say you could get almost anything in Pokhara.

Trekking permits in Nepal: How to get an Annapurna permit

Understanding Nepal trekking permits may seem complicated at first, but let me assure you that getting an Annapurna trekking permit is really easy. All you need to get one is:

Passport
Two passport-sized pictures
3000 rupees

If you don’t have pictures, there are some little booths where you can have your picture taken for a small fee.

You’ll need an ACAP permit for Annapurna trekking. The ACAP permit office is located within walking distance of Lakeside, and it was fun to see a more local part of town. The office is very small, and I imagine it can be crowded in the high season. But the ladies there have it all under control.

You start by filling out a form with all your information and tick your intended trek(s). There are sections to fill in your guide’s information, but we simply didn’t fill that out and didn’t have any problems. You then hand your passport and form over to the ladies. As a third step, you pay and wait again until your permit is ready.

There was a checkpoint at Nayapul before you enter the Conservation Area, so I think it would be difficult to be sneaky and try it without an Annapurna Conservation Area permit.

The Annapurna permit cost is the same no matter if you go trekking for two or twenty days. Also, you can only enter the area once, meaning you can’t tick all the hikes you want to do, complete one hike, go back to Pokhara for pizza and go hiking again after a few days. If you combine multiple treks, there’s some leeway if you re-enter right away or the same day.

You don’t need a TIMS card for the Annapurna region. If you need a restricted area permit, such as for Manaslu trek or Mustang valley, different rules apply.

Trekking in Nepal without a guide: Is it allowed?

This might be the most confusing and controversial question. In 2023, Nepal’s government announced that trekking without a guide is no longer allowed. I’m not in a position to claim that this rule is bogus and that no-one enforces it. But in my experience, it’s perfectly fine to trek in the Annapurna region without a guide. I appreciate that it creates work for the people of the region, but personally, I like the freedom of going at my own pace, choosing my own breaks and teahouse, and enjoy some quiet in the forest without talking. Being without a guide was not frowned upon and we were definitely not the only ones without one.

If safety is a concern, it definitely felt safe to hike in Nepal. Trekking without a guide on the easier treks that I did felt super safe. We often passed people along the way and the treks are so well maintained that it would be virtually impossible to get lost.

Annapurna trek packing list: My tried and tested gear

You don’t need any special equipment for the Poon Hill trek in Nepal. If you plan to go higher, such as to Annapurna Base Camp or Mardi Himal, you may want some warmer clothes and additional items. Your Annapurna trekking will be much smoother with this packing list:

Hiking outfit (shorts, shirt, trail running shoes for grip, good hiking socks)
Teahouse outfit (long pants, fleece and/or puffy jacket, hat, and gloves to keep warm)
Hiking sticks to support your knees
Crampons (yes, there will be snow)
Sunglasses, suncream, hat
Water filter, snacks
Toiletries, medication
Backpack rain protection (I use a big garbage bag as a liner)
Headlamp for sunrise hikes
Power bank

If you’re a cold sleeper, you could consider bringing a hot water bottle or a Nalgene.

Digital nomad essentials for life on the road

If you book via any of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Flights

Hotels

I normally use a good mixture of booking.com and Agoda to get the best deals. I like booking for its user-friendly interface. But for Asia, I’ve found that Agoda has a wider selection of hotels.

If you’re on a budget, Hostelworld will be your best bet because they focus on dormitory-style accommodation.

Tours

GetYourGuide is perfect for locally guided tours or if tickets are already booked. I saw the famous Last Supper painting by Leonardo Da Vinci with them in Milan and had a very smooth experience.